Rotate the engine clockwise by hand until you see the exhaust valve open up. Continue rotating until you see the intake valve open, then close. Now you are at TDC for 1, which is where you need to be to procede. If your engine already runs, you can simply remove the distributor cap, and rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing at the plug wire in the cap that runs to cylinder 1.
You are now at TDC for 1. Be sure you have it right. Slide the distributor clamp onto your new distributor. These are manufactured in filthy buildings with dirt floors, and are often assembled with dirt and bugs in the mechanical workings, which causes them to run in a way they are not designed to CRAPPY! When the carburetor is changed to one which is missing the proper vacuum port, obviously the vacuum signal is lost, so the centrifugal advance units ARE the proper distributor for this application.
Which one to use? What you want is to set your ignition timing about 4 degrees retarded from the point where detonation begins.
This setting means the flame front will meet the piston at the top, maximizing cylinder pressure and the time crank degrees to push the piston down, making the most power.
Obviously, you would leave yourself a safety zone of degrees of timing at all points to CYA in case of bad gasoline, clogged main jet, vacuum leak, abnormally hot engine, etc.
The power difference between detonation and degrees of retarded timing from this point is negligible, so riding the ragged edge of timing is not worth the risk!. Detonation does NOT have to be audible for it to turn your expensive mechanical marvel into junk in short order. Ideally, you would remove all advance from the distributor, and run a locked timing. You then put the engine on a dyno, and play with timing across the RPM band from idle to red line at full throttle finding the timing where you are 4 degrees from detonation and then chart it.
Then, you remove the locked timing from the distributor, set your initial timing to match what you found was best at idle. If you have the patience and time to set up this custom curve, and have a heavily modified engine, your patience will be rewarded!
You will find they are VERY adjustable. The easiest method to follow is very straightforward. Now find the place where it responds best at idle. It may be degrees BTDC. You may find that this much advance causes starting difficulties when the engine is hot, so be sure to check this out! Avoid this, or use a retard that is activated during cranking. Now, you know the two critical points in your advance curve.
You only need to figure out how FAST you want the advance to come in. Keep adjusting it it requires distributor disassembly so it comes in quicker and quicker, until you detect detonation problem.
Back it to the previous setting, and you are DONE with the centrifugal advance. Now, dial in 10 degrees of vacuum advance, and adjust the advance so the carb s will actually activate it and you are done!
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The original working engine, carburetor and distributor combination that came with each VW should have worked really well. If you have a high performance engine with a long duration camshaft, you will not have the proper vacuum signal for a stock vacuum advance distributor to work. The refers to the at the end of the VW number on the distributor. There were actually many VW distributors ending in and they differ significantly.
Old Volks Home. Wolfsburg West. This is the most popular performance distributor for VWs. It has a fully centrifugal advance and designed to be timed to 10 BTDC with a total advance of 32 BTDC and therefore does not require a vacuum line from the carburetor.
This simplicity in itself makes it desirable in itself as this allows you to setup whatever carburetor setup you like, dual or single, without needing to modify the carburetor to work for the distributor. The timing curve of the isn't perfect and despite it's popularity, many feel that it is a "poor" choice for a VW because of the dreaded "flat spot".
This flat spot can be address in a number of ways, often making the carb run richer or switching out the with anther distributor. There are at least three different models of distributors: a German model identifiable by the "Germany" stamp on the bottom , a Brazilian model, and a chrome Brazilian model which ends with All three of these distributors have different advance curves, some advancing sooner than others.
The chrome had the fastest advance curve, the Brazilian was a bit slower, and the German had the slowest advance curve. Rumor has it the the was originally designed for stationary industrial motors and constant high rpm use. The distributor has VW stamped above the Bosch number and is primarily used on industrial engines for constant high rpm use. The was the successor to the and succeeded the or as per Bosch microfiche.
The or Looks identical to the "". How to Make an These are similar to the and predate the
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