SRAM gets me so frustrated - they have these incredible products I love my boxxers but every year they change them, or modify them, and it completely renders your 1 year old forks as useless, just because a new model has been released.
It's the same with the elixir brakes - instead of spending a long time to get them right, they just released them, found out what was wrong, and made a new model a year later It's the biggest reason I'm considering swapping to Fox suspension, I'm fed up with buying products, only to have them superseded a year later, which means I've lost over half the money I paid for them.
SRAM do make awesome products though, I just wish they spent an extra year developing them so the customer gets the product they've paid for. If you love your Boxxers, as you say you do, why do you care if the Boxxers are different? WAKIdesigns Oct 26, at On the first side of a page it is called: the progress. And there's some truth in it However if you turn the page you might find a chapter called: manufacturing demand. So in one way it is a progress from which you can gain something, but on another hand they want you to feel bad about the stuff you have.
But all of that lies within your psychic pretty much. More stuff you buy because it just looks sick, without thinking damn, the fork I have is actualy pretty good: more you will be exposed to these strategies.
The new stuff always looks better than the old one save Marzocchis I personaly find myself doing that many times, and after some time I just realize that it doesn't make me any happier Currently I try to hold to the stuff I have and if I buy something, I want it to be better in many ways than the stuff I have. Yeah I agree, but for instance I bought boxxers halfway through this year because they were cheap.
I'm not selling my downhill bike as I've had it for 3 years of racing, and the new boxxers I put on it are now overshadowed by the ones How do I know that next year, Rock Shox will not have yet another version of the boxxer?
Or 2 years later? It's for this reason I'm going to give Fox a shot, because I think they are less likely to change things just for the sake of it, and they seem to spend lots of time getting their product right, rather than just flinging new products onto the market, only to find issues with them. As for "the progress", I'm all in favour of it too!
Heck, if there wasn't progress we'd still be riding penny farthings, but SRAM have this obsession remaking their products, or renaming them. I don't see it as fair to release a new product when you know it has plenty of room for improvement AdamMTB: if you like the way your product is functioning, the fashion police won't arrest you if you use it two years in a row.
Course they won't! I'm not worried about that. It's that the customer loses money each time these guys release yet another product, when it seems it is a new addition they should have thought about in the first place.
AdamMTB Your Boxxer is not overshadowed by the new model, but that's exactly how they want you to feel so you wanna buy new stuff. I still use the first generation of the Totem, and although they make a new model every year I stick to mine cause I like it and it does the job well! As far as Fox or even Marzocchi, tell me a year they did not make new models of everything? I seem to remember they made a new set of 40s in 09 completely revamped them and then made those limited edition models in , and Kashima in To me, the limited editions don't count they are not a commerical thing, they're a prototype.
The kashima coating was not available I don't think before , so that is a progress that they have added because it was a new technology. As far as I know, Fox have been more consistant with existing products than Rock Shox have. And as for a few posts above, changing the paint does not count as a performance upgrade.
In other words, I'm not jealous of a new product because it's different, it's just that it's not good service to add basic performance upgrades a year later when they should have been in there in the first model. Get it right the first time, keep it right, and when a new technology comes along, THEN is the time to make a new product. Demo Oct 26, at If it bothers you that much just buy the new internals and drop em' in.
It will be a with lowers. It will also be cheaper than buying a new fork. Never ever was changing internals a game worth the money. In some cases it is even not worth changing the coil spring. Sell the fork buy new one and you will end up spending less money in the end. Just learn to like what you have, and when it gets worn out, then buy a new product. And always ask yourself will it really make me a better rider, is it able to do that at all?
Are you good enough to actualy use the benefits? I didn't say I'm one to do that I'm perfectly happy with my model. And just for the record, I had trouble taking your reply seriously at all Did you know it's actually cheaper to convert a boxxer to WC then to buy a WC?
Everything after that was legit points though. I've got some 5 year old marzocchi drop offs and personally i dont see any point in me going to buy some new marzocchi 55s theyre basically for the same purpose but newer because the drop offs are so simple to set up and there is basically nothing that can go wrong with them. Also i dont feel a vast improvement with the 55s so in 5 years marzocchi hasn't made a far better product so i doubt sram would of made a product that would over-shadow a product a year older.
I wouldn't buy Boxxer World Cup Team sounds better no toilet conotations - what are the internalls of you WC? I hope I won't get any rebound from the sewage Thanks again!
Sysics Jan 14, at Very usefull guide, thank you a lot. Just my rebound doesn't work as before, it's a bit slow. Any suggestions? Can you remove the rebound adjuster? If so then insert an allen key into the bottom of the rebound damper and check its rotation if it is not turning then a strip down will be reqd.
If you look on the SRAM site it doesn't really give definitive schedules , only makes reference to how frequent and local riding conditions.
As a rule of thumb I tend to do a full service once a year and a lower leg service every 5 uplift days and as a result fork and stanchions are as new and super smooth. Hope this is of some help ChrisKav Nov 22, at Godd job!!! Nice video! And really helpfull as well! DimS Sep 8, at Thanks for vid man. You saved me a lot of trouble. What's the best grease to use? For the grease i prefer Manitou Mprep or you can use stenders crystal grease. For the oil I tend to use either Silkolene or Shell Gemini.
Apply grease to the new glide ring and install it. Pour any remaining oil from the upper tube into the oil pan. Push the rebound damper shaft into the seal head, leaving just enough shaft exposed to hold onto with your fingers.
Use large internal snap ring pliers to remove the seal head snap ring from the snap ring groove. Orient the upper tube upright in the bicycle stand. Firmly pull down on the damper shaft and remove the rebound damper and seal head assembly from the upper tube. Slide the seal head off the damper shaft. Use a pick to remove the inner and outer seal head o-rings. Spray isopropyl alcohol on the rebound damper shaft and clean it with a lint free rag.
Remove the glide ring from the rebound shaft assembly. Apply grease to the seal head inner o-ring. Slide the rebound seal head onto the rebound damper shaft with the flat side of the seal head facing away from the piston. Spray isopropyl alcohol into the upper tube. Wrap a clean, lint free rag around a dowel and clean the inside of the upper tube. Apply grease to the seal head outer o-ring. Insert the rebound damper piston into the bottom of the upper tube at an angle, with the side of the glide ring opposite the split entering the upper tube first.
Continue to angle and rotate until the glide ring is in the upper tube. Push the seal head firmly into the bottom of the upper tube until the retaining ring groove is visible. Use large internal snap ring pliers to secure the snap ring into the snap ring groove.
Pull the rebound damper shaft down to the fully extended position. Measure and slowly pour mL of RockShox 5wt suspension oil into the upper tube. This method is recommended for use only when the lower leg is attached to the fork. Compress the fork a few times to circulate the oil throughout the damping system. Measure from the top of the upper tube to the top of the oil level. The measurement should be mm. Apply grease to the compression damper top cap threads and top cap o-ring.
Insert the compression damper into the top of the upper tube and push downward until the damper is fully seated in the upper tube. Hand thread the compression damper clockwise into the upper tube. Use a 24 mm flat wrench to tighten the compression damper top cap to 7. Reset the low speed compression adjuster knob to its original setting documented in the table of the Getting Started section. Spray the upper tubes with isopropyl alcohol and wipe with a clean rag.
Clean and inspect the shaft bolts, nylon crush washers, and crush washer retainers. Replace any crush washers and crush washer retainers if damaged. Apply a liberal amount of grease to the inner surfaces of the dust wiper and oil seal. Gently slide the lower leg assembly onto the upper tubes. Make sure that the damper side goes into the right lower leg, and the spring side goes into the left lower leg.
Slide the upper tubes into the lower leg until you feel the spring and damper shafts make contact with the inside of the legs, then pull the upper tubes back out a few centimeters to provide clearance for oil lubrication installation. Make sure both dust seals slide onto the tubes correctly without folding the seals lip.
Invert the fork to about 45 degrees, with the fork legs pointing upward. Slowly slide each upper tube completely into the lower leg until the shaft threads are visible through the shaft bolt holes.
Sliding the upper tubes and lower legs together too quickly will cause oil to spray out of the shaft bolt holes. Check for oil in the shaft threads. If there is oil in this area, use the corner of a rag to clean and dry the threads.
Thread the rebound damper and coil spring shaft bolts into the threaded shaft ends, through the lower leg holes. Use a 5 mm hex to tighten the spring shaft bolt to 7. Use a 24 mm flat wrench to tighten the rebound damper shaft bolt to 7. Install the ending stroke rebound adjuster knob, followed by the washer onto the rebound adjuster shaft. Apply a small amount of threadlock to the rebound knob retaining bolt.
Install the beginning stroke rebound knob and retaining bolt onto the rebound adjuster shaft. Use a 2 mm hex wrench to tighten the bolt to 0. Spray isopropyl alcohol on entire fork and wipe with a clean rag. Once you have installed the fork onto the bike, you'll be ready to ride! Slide each upper tube through the lower crown, leaving enough clearance to install the frame bumpers. Spray a liberal amount of isopropyl alcohol or water on the the inner surfaces of the frame bumpers and re-install the bumpers onto the upper tubes.
Gently push and twist the upper tubes through the upper crown. Position both upper tubes to extend past the top of the upper crown by an equal amount, no less than 2 mm. Measure the distance from the top of the upper tube to the top of lower crown. Align the logo on the drive side upper tube with the logo on the lower leg.
Use a 4 mm hex wrench to tighten the four lower crown bolts, in an alternating fashion, to 5 Nm 44 in-lb. Tighten the two upper crown bolts to 5 Nm 44 in-lb. Re-install the brake caliper according to the brake manufacturers instructions. Fasten the brake hose to the brake hose guides on the forks lower leg. Position your wheel in the lower leg dropouts. All rights reserved.
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